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Goodyear Welted Shoes vs Blake Stitched Shoes

Jul 11, 2017

There are numerous methods of footwear construction available with varying style, construction and advantages. We’ll take a quick look at the two most popular high end footwear construction methods.

What is Goodyear Welted Construction?

Goodyear welted construction was invented by Charles Goodyear Jr. The original Goodyear welt construction requires a time consuming method that has been perfected over the years by our artisans.

This construction style involves stitching the upper leather and lining leather layers to a welt (a leather strip) then the strip is attached to the sole. This method allows for soles to be resoled with minor if any changes to the fit.

What is Blake Stitch Construction?

Invented by Lyman Reed Blake, The Blake stitch method is often comparable to the Goodyear welt in reference to high end footwear. The blake method construction simplifies the process of attaching the sole to the upper while retaining the structural integrity of its predecessor.

Blake construction involves stitching the upper and lining layers directly to the sole. The result is footwear that is slimmer, flexible and lighter than Goodyear welted shoes.

Difference between Blake Method and GoodYear Welt

These two methods each offer a set of features that make them preferable to different tastes.

Blake Method

The Blake method results in a slimmer look since the upper layers are stitched directly to the sole.

Blake stitching does not require as much cork filler and without the welt layer this method creates lighter footwear.

Blake stitched shoes are more flexible and may be more comfortable for some.

Blake stitched shoes are not moisture resistance. Always avoid moisture on any leather shoes.

The Blake method is resoleable but requires specialized Blake machines.

Goodyear Welt

The Goodyear welt results in a bulkier look on the shoe upper since there is an additional welt layer.

The Goodyear welting process creates sturdy footwear due to the added welt layer and additional cork filler required.

Goodyear welted footwear are considerably more rigid and impact absorbing

Goodyear welted shoes are notably more moisture resistant. However it is recommended to avoid moisture with any leather shoes.

Goodyear welted footwear also have the added advantage of being easily resoleable since the sole can be removed without deconstructing the upper.